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After 7 or 8 years of trying to get a descent amount of fruit from Cherokee pourple tomato plants. They can be quite temperamental and suffer from blossom drop in the heat and are suceptable to wilt and blight after too much rain I usually only get a few toms compared to other varieties. It also helps a little with the blight. Anyway the end result was a Cherokee purple plant loaded from top to bottom with tomatoes. I shared a similar experience with a Brandywine Red tomatoes planted in full sun.

This year, I will be planting similar varieties to yours like Black Krim, Brandywine Pink and also Cherokee if they have it in stock. I plan on starting them in late Winter with afternoon shade protection, as they prefer cooler conditions. On another note, after having planting multiple cherry varieties, I can confirm the Tommy Toe is a jack of all trades and very reliable, all though I actually found the Camp Joy Tomato my favourite because of its sweeter flavour profile.


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  • I agree that basil suffers a bit from shading if grown next to tomatoes. Use perennial stakes rather than wooden ones which rot out in a couple of years. Many of my pipes were from roadside collections and I have not had to retire any yet — I expect they will outlast me.

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    Forget about doomsayers who tell you that using pipe will burn the plant because the pipe will get hot. Very little of the plant is in contact with the metal, much of the metal is shaded by the plant, and any effect is so small it can be ignored. For cheap, gentle ties, I use torn-up strips of old cotton bed sheets. One sheet would be more than enough for most home gardeners for a season. At the end of the season, the weathered cotton can be dug back into the soil where it will rot and be gone before next spring. You can recycle your old pure cotton sheets or buy then very cheaply from secondhand stores e.

    While old pantyhose works well, who has enough old pantyhose for a whole patch of tomato plants? The remaining fruit will then get to a better size and has a better chance of ripening before the cool weather sets in.

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    Watch for any diseased plants and pull them out as soon as you suspect they are sick. They will not produce a useful amount of fruit, or the fruit will be diseased, and the disease may spread to your good plants. A handful of blood and bone in the hole at planting time is probably all they need. After the plant is established you can heap up soil around the stem and the plant will send out additional roots above the original soil level. For a shallow soil most of Eltham , this will give the plant more effective soil volume to draw nutrients from.

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